D and I recently had some friends over for an intimate feast. We prepared many items we had never attempted before, something I often shy away from when we have guests– there is nothing worse than messing up something you have never attempted before. But cooking, like any passion, is all about trial and error and you’ll never get better without an attempt. All in all, the 5 hours spread ended deliciously well, mishaps included.

All vegetables, and most fruits, were brought to us by our local Community Supported Agriculture program. Each week I am thankful that we have invested in our farm and I proudly brag about “my farmers” who brought me my organic vegetables– just picked yesterday!

This weekend we celebrated the spring bounty.

The evening began calmly as pictured above. I started prepping items 1 week in advance: spanakopita (spinach from “my farm” with local sheep feta), rhubarb syrup (rhubarb from last week’s CSA drop boiled down with water and sugar) and a rhubarb tart (crust prepared and frozen and rhubarb chopped and frozen). The rest was finalized and started the night before arrival…

We welcomed guests C and M with choice of champagne or a strawberry rhubarb “martini.” I like to call drinks served in martini glasses and made with vodka “martinis,” as do most bars and restaurants. I suppose because it makes the drink sound more sophisticated. D is angered by this and claims it is a merely a mixed cocktail if it has no vermouth. Our Strawberry Rhubarb “Martinis” contained rhubarb syrup, vodka, mashed fresh strawberries and were topped with champagne. We also eventually threw some mint in there.

Next was the spanakopita. I received pounds of spinach, amongst other greens last week. S

o much I feared we could not eat it, but didn’t want it going to waste. I could not bare to simply freeze the spinach so bought some filo and feta, steamed and chopped the spinach, added nutmeg, crumbled feta, wrapped in filo and froze. Laborious to wrap individually, yes (a spanakopita pie would have been easier), but well worth it.

An assemble-one’s-own course followed next. I like the idea of the guest doing some work, it allows them to understand flavor combinations you use a little more and how they work together. If they don’t cook, it also makes them feel like they are creating something. You can see the beginnings of this course spread out above: Buttered and toasted crostinis, fig spread, goat cheese and topped with prosciutto.

The fig spread is a treasured find of mine and D’s. We uncovered it in the Middle Eastern section of one of our local markets– the one I can easily spend hours walking down the aisles because they have floor to ceiling goodies from all over the world. This spread hails from Lebanon and has three simple flavors: fig, sesame, anise. It is a fantastic addition to sandwiches, crostinis

and is really a power secret ingredient. It would be simple to make, but at$2 for an 8oz container with such a pure ingredient mixture, why bother? The prosciutto was from a local Italian deli.

We entered the main of our meal. The moment D said C and M would be over for dinner I proclaimed rabbit would be the headliner. I held fast through D’s skeptism. My thought: no matter what produce we would receive from our CSA, rabbit would be a perfect compliment. D still thought it was slightly disturbing to serve “rabbit salad,” so we broke the salad into more of a side.

We wanted the rabbit sweet to compliment the warming weather– a more savory base is fitting for fall and winter. I found a marinade based in orange juice, honey and cayenne which seemed perfect for this. I wanted to incorporate nectarines into the dish and thought to make a nectarine mousse. Unfortunately, as witnessed in the picture above, the mousse never set properly (recipe now in the works). It ended more a thick sauce that we poured over the rabbit and topped it all with crumbled bacon. The salad, red bib lettuce, sugar snap peas and radish were provided by our CSA.

Gluttony followed.

My newest acquisition is an ice cream attachment for my Kitchen Aid. I’ve been itching for an ice cream maker for a few years now and with a few Am Ex gift certificates in hand, it was a real steal. I went all out and made two treats for this meal. The first was a lemon-lime-ginger sorbet. This was a great sweet-tart intermission though I would add a little more ginger next time.

This was followed by D’s conquest: foie gras.

Let’s just put out that I know both sides of the foie gras debate before we get all the comments coming in. I think Gastronomica Magazine has a great article about it in their Winter 2007 issue. Let’s just say I can rarely afford it so rarely eat it. (But it is delicious.)

At this point my local butcher thinks I am crazy. Each day I go in I discuss and request more from them: free range veal, grass-fed beef, truffle butter, truffles, and this weekend, I asked if they would put rabbits and foie gras aside for me. They know me by site now and if I ask for a simple steak they ask if something is the matter– just steak?

We couldn’t afford the entire “foie” so we split if with one of the butchers who was happy to take home the other half. I asked for his discount, but he denied. Note to self: get in with butchers until discount is granted. D took care of the prep, slicing it in thirds, de-veining, salt, pepper nutmeg, layer, port, cognac, repeat. For whatever reason our most trusted cookbook failed us for the first time when it failed to mention that the foie must sit for a few good hours post-cooking to re-set– many recipes suggest 1-3 days. While we knew some sitting would be necessary, the foie was a little loose when served, still delicious (and is a great topping on salad for a luxurious dinner another night).

Lemon-lime-ginger sorbet repeat and then the finale.

I found a rhubarb streusel tart recipe on epicurious that I knew would be perfect. Not only did we receive rhubarb from our CSA the previous week, D is a big fan of anything with streusel in the name. How can you not love butter and brown sugar? Instead of mixing almonds into the streusel as called for I used the handy new ice cream maker and created my own almond ice cream.

This I believed was my true triumph. Something D couldn’t imagine tasting good– “almond ice cream just does not sound good,” yet he keeps coming back for more and requesting me to churn out new flavors– dare I attempt arugula custard? Not just yet… a cognac creation is next.

MENU:
Rhubarb Spritzer
Spanakopita
Fig-Goat Cheese-Procuitto Crostini
Roast Rabbit w/ Spring Greens & Nectarine Mousse
Lemon-Lime-Ginger Sorbet
Foie Gras
Lemon-Lime-Ginger Sorbet
Rhubarb Streusel Tart w/ Almond Ice Cream

I love Mexican food. For the simplicity and freshness in a quesadilla to the complexity of a 27 ingredient mole (pronounced mo-lay), I love it all. Every dish is layered, be it with cheese or with aromas and spices that can be difficult to place but beg to be sopped up with rice.

For eight years my good friend, B, managed a Mexican restaurant in NYC. The nights I spent there were some of the best in my life. We would close the place down with pitchers of margaritas and chips with guacamole in the backyard on humid summer days, or perch ourselves near the front bar talking about books and horror movies. It was more than a destination for our little crew– and ending the night with a $10 check didn’t hurt matters.

It was here that I introduced D to mole and it would become an obsession of his. I ordered it one night when he was on his way in and told him, “no worries, the mole is on the way.” He had no idea what I was talking about and I attempted to calm his nerves with another, “don’t worry, it’s a chocolate-based sauce, really good, you’ll like it.” D must have been thinking fondue, but when the dish finally arrived, he was hooked, ordering it every visit, licking the plate clean with every serving.

My friend has now left and the restaurant is just not the same.

I now get my Mexican fix locally, in Queens. First, with the taco truck down my street. At 7 PM each and every night that silver truck with red and green letters and lights pulls in front of the drug store. The man, he won’t tell me his name, but he’s from outside Guadalajara, makes a mean street taco with choice of eight fillings. D has moved on and is now on a torta kick. They are thick and fresh and overflow with lettuce and cheese and leave your hands dripping from sauces. I stick with a taco in a fresh corn tortilla, change up the filling.

The man is so good that even after a recent epic multi-course dining experience a friend just had to get one taco. The only words he could say upon completion: “oh yeeeeah.”

I’ve asked the man what kind of hot sauce he prefers, hoping to mimic his flavors at home. He laughs and just nods towards the bottles of green and red sauces, “all homemade!” I say he should bottle them and sell them to us gringos. He just smiles and hands over my taco, “extra sauce please.”

About a block away on the opposite side of the street is a small Mexican bodega. My belief is that it’s a restaurant disguised as a bodega that doesn’t want to deal with the permits of serving food. I only see people eating there. Even the cans of soda are for show (though the wall of chiles did help us with this recipe). The food counter overflows and families and workers will come in and sit at one of the two makeshift plastic tables over a plate overflowing with chicken, rice and beans.

The weekends are the real treat. For $1 you can purchase the homemade tamales, steaming and wrapped in corn husks. This weekend, D and I whetted our appetites with mole (chicken mole) and rolla (jalapeno and cheese). They make the experience of walking to the corner vegetable stalls much more pleasant.

This past January, I returned to Chicago just before my birthday. A trip to Rick Bayless reignited my love for Mexican restaurants (though I really wasn’t too thrilled with the guacamole). Needless to say, I swooned over the pyramids of black rice, the specialty margaritas, especially the spicy one, and dove head first into my plate of duck mole. Divine. So I bought the cookbook and had Rick (that’s right, first name basis) sign it.

Since the return from Chicago (nearly 6 months ago) D has poured over the pages of said cookbook envisioning dishes of every shape and flavor. He’s promised and promised to make one. Finally, he found one.

Before I mention what the dish entailed, beyond the above picture and title, let me say that the cookbook I purchased was Bayless’ Authentic Mexican. It’s a cookbook that has received rave reviews on its recipes, but smashed for its inaccessibility to the average person. There are no pictures, recipes can last for pages filled with tips and time lines on the side. It is very daunting. And when I went to the cookbook area to purchase any cookbook I asked my waiter, “what do you recommend.” I received a general, “this one is authentic, this one is simpler.” Who wouldn’t go with the authentic despite its inaccessibility?

So D poured over the pages and finally found his recipe of choice: Dark and Spicy Mole. For weeks he promised me a batch of mole. He was going to make it by himself– all 6 hours of it. So I stepped back and awaited the finale. It was slow coming.

Bayless recommends breaking the recipe down into 4 days. As I would expect with any 6 hour preparation, I became sous chef to D and we sped the process up to 2 days– how can you wait so long for mole?! Day 1 we prepped the ingredients: 4 different kinds of chiles, the Mexican chocolate, tomato, onion. Day 2 we did the rest: cleaning the chiles, reconstituting them, toasting spices, frying onions, raisins and almonds and pureeing batches. We did this for 6 hours (yes there were some breaks) until we were left with one bowl of pureed spices and chocolate and one bowl of pureed chiles.

We cooked sauce one down until thick, added sauce 2, cooked down until thick again, added 5 quarts of homemade chicken broth and then let it simmer for 45 minutes. After that we arranged two chickens onto the roasting pan, coated them with sauce (freezing 6 cups for later use) and baked it all for 1 hour.

That’s it. I dread our electric/ gas bill in the next month, but the mole was fantastic. Was it worth 6 hours? I don’t know. But I can’t fly to Chicago so easily all the time. It was complex and layered with some amazing flavor combinations– the spice-chocolate mixture tasted like peanuts and the chiles were so flavorful and sweet they tasted like chocolate. Together it was rich and well, beguiling, and changed over the week we had it.

In the end it doesn’t look like much. Sure, we could have dolled it up with some avocado, cilantro, maybe some sour cream. I could have created rice pyramids with a moat of mole, but the flavors were so intense we left it simple: some scallions, fresh tomatoes and wild rice. Plus, after 6 hours of cooking, do you really want to spend even another minute adding a twig of baby greens for the perfect picture? Sorry, you just want to dive in and devour.

The recipe is a few pages long (one page is all ingredients) so if you want it, let me know. It’s not for the faint of heart.

The weather is warming and we begin to think about happier days full of beaches, camping, blossoms, fresh vegetables on a farm (or in our buckets)… Maybe that’s just me? But as we prepare ourselves for more time outdoors, we need to get our bodies in shape on the inside. Nothing says love and lightness like a delicious salad.

While I await the fresh vegetable assault on my local markets, I am still turning to the old favorites of endive and raddichio. Oh the day when fresh leafy greens and tomatoes will grace the plate again– Woe is I until that day. Until then, we must make due.

I read somewhere that duck breasts, skin removed, are healthier (and tastier) than chicken breasts. I can’t find that exact quote now, but if health organizations recommend it, so do I.

I woke up the other day craving duck. It might be because every time I tell D I would like to buy duck he whimpers slightly and asks “why?” Well, why not? The more that duck is rejected, the more I crave it– don’t we all want what we cannot have? I started dreaming about duck and found duck-shaped drool puddles when I awoke around my mouth whenever one of those dreams occured. Finally, I shot out of bed before D was conscious and headed to the butcher.

I bought myself one full duck and brought it home in triumph! As punishment (or really, reward) I allowed D his manly duties of carving the duck to separate the breasts (alternatively you could just buy breasts).

The duck was perfect. Juicy and earthy, it hit the spot. And the legs and carcass went into a braise the following day with figs and red wine.

Seared Duck Breast Salad
Serving Size= 2. Active time= about 30 minutes.
* 2 duck breasts, skin on
* 1 head endive, washed and chopped
* 1 head radicchio, washed and chopped
* 1/4 cup favorite blue cheese (or gorgonzola)
* 1/4 cup walnuts or pecans, slightly crushed
* 1/4 cup dried figs, roughly chopped
Dressing:
* 2 teaspoons dijon mustard
* 2 tablespoons olive oil
* 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
* salt/ pepper to taste

1) On a warm pan over medium-low heat, begin searing the duck. Place skin side down and let cook slowly, without flipping, about 15 minutes. Carefully pour off fat every few minutes as it renders to avoid frying (you can save it for deep frying later). After the 15 minutes, flip breasts and cook about 5 minutes, until crisp and firm. Set aside for 5 minutes.
2) While duck is cooking above, prepare vegetables and fruit and arrange on plate. Slice duck breasts, removing skin (optional) and place on plates.
3) Make dressing and coat salad at last minute: Mix mustard, olive oil, and balsamic vinegar. Salt and pepper the salad to taste before serving.

It is difficult not to love Mexican food: fresh herbs, buttery ingredients like avocado, cheese, savory-sweet and spicy meats clearing the sinuses, all freshened up with a little sour cream (or the like). What could be better? As D now takes to saying a la Jack Black in the film Nachos Libre: “Fresh ingredients! I need du fresh ingredients!” each time we consider a Mexican-inspired meal.

Quesadillas are an easy winner for most people. They are hearty enough to fill and the flavors can be as varied as your imagination: from shrimp to steak and potato or simply cheese and salsa. Beyond all that, for the world of flavor you are opened to in each bite, it is extremely easy on the pockets.

I may even admit that my range of cooking was not always so ambitious. Yes, there may have been a time, in college, when the only items found in my refrigerator were a packet of tortillas, a jar of salsa and a wedge of good cheddar cheese. They stacked nicely on top of each other and saved much space for precious beer and my roommates’ leftovers that always seemed to rot before being consumed. For variety, these items may have been stacked neatly next to a package of Ryvita crackers, a few cans of tuna and a jar of relish and mustard– the palate does need change after all– and it helps to receive an income to aid that change!

So my gourmand tune has changed but my love of the delicious and speedy meal that tops a delicate flour tortilla has remained.

D and I roasted up some chickens last week for sandwiches and soup the following week. A simple quick roast of two birds layered on a bed of potatoes, onions, mushrooms, leeks and carrots provided an excellent base for future meals. There was the simple roast chicken with a side of roasted vegetables. Then there was the chicken sandwich on multi-grain bread with sprouts, then chicken, prosciutto, roasted garlic and sprouts on a noble white, and towards the end of the run the carcass was picked clean and thrown into soup– Coconut Thai Chicken Soup to be exact. With the remaining chicken we made the above-pictured quesadilla. I am proud to say we spanned many cuisines and continents with those two birds.

Chipotle Chicken Quesadillas
Serving Size= 2 quesadillas. Active time= about 10 minutes.
* 1 chicken breast, cooked and shredded
* 1 can Chipotle peppers in adobo sauce (I like La Morena, it comes in a bright orange can)
* 1/4 pound sharp cheddar, shredded or cut into thin strips (just use what you like)
* 1/2 avocado, sliced
* 3 tablespoons plain yogurt (or sour cream)
* juice of 1 lime
* 1 teaspoon cinnamon
* 2 tablespoons red onion, chopped
* 1/4 cup cilantro, stems included, loosely chopped

1) Place the shredded chicken on a medium-sized skillet over medium heat. Chop 2 chipotle peppers into 1/4 inch pieces, add it to the skillet along with 1-2 tablespoons of adobo sauce from the can. Stir until incorporated and allow ingredients to warm.
2) While chicken is warming, prepare other ingredients: Slice avocado, chop onions, wash and chop cilantro. Check on the chicken and stir periodically. Make the Adobo-Yogurt sauce: Mix yogurt, lime juice, 1 tablespoon adobo sauce and cinnamon together. Set aside.
3) In another skillet on medium-high heat, place one tortilla and layer cheese over the top. No oil or butter is needed. As tortilla warms it will puff up and cheese will melt. Remove from heat once cheese has melted, add second tortilla to skillet and repeat warming.
4) While second tortilla is warming, chicken should be about done, remove from heat. Remove second tortilla from heat once cheese has melted and assemble the two quesadillas: Divide the Chipotle Chicken amongst the two, add sliced avocado, sprinkle each with onion and cilantro and top with a drizzle of Adobo-Yogurt sauce. Serve warm.

Did you know the chipotle pepper is actually a smoked jalepeno pepper? If this is not true I would love to be proved wrong. I was in the middle of a heated debate the other week (at a Mexican restaurant no less) where humble customer and wait-staff claimed one thing (the jalepeno verdict) while head chef claimed another. I’m not one to discount a chef, but maybe in some places it is different? Or always comes packaged as chipotle and has always been thought of differently?

I will be making no Thanksgiving meal this year, nor will I be helping with preparations other than eating appetizing bits. There are so many clever little hints I’ve been picking up along the way that I would have loved to dish out, ways to spice up presentation, etc. Maybe next year. Until then… I will contemplate what I would have made (and make your searching a little easier in the days to come):

For munching, I would definitely have a cheese platter set out with dried fruit (apricot, plum, figs), assorted nuts (cashews, walnuts, roasted chestnuts) and some olives. A few cheeses I would absolutely have? Some of my old and new favorites: Bayley Hazen Blue, a stinky Epoisses, a butterscotched Gouda and the rich Monte Enebro. [Okay, not too difficult to figure out the key to my heart lies in cheese.] Serve it with a bold Zinfandel (the only wine pairing I will make).

If people really needed an afternoon snack I might whip up a batch of the recent cranberry bread. Fabulous with tea or coffee.

That should be enough to tide people over until a nice warming bowl of soup. How to choose since I love soup. A quick and easy one is Curried Butternut Squash or a zesty Carrot Ginger, a sweetly spiced new one is Winter Squash, and a decadent one, yet to be posted (but if you would like a recipe, let me know, it’s delicious) is a rich Chestnut Soup with Thick Bacon Bits.

A salad would follow. Probably endive, pear and walnut. Possibly with pomegranate. Much like the one here. Cleansing and delicious.

Turkey, of course. Broiled Brussels sprouts, sweet potato chips with an elegant balsamic reduction, garlic mashed potatoes topped with caramelized onions, braised beets and other root veggies for color, and maybe some sweet asparagus with a splash of truffle oil (and shavings if the budget allows). I’m not really a stuffing person, but I made this oyster stuffing, last year that was rich and delicious and scavenged to be taken home.

A pause for dessert. Maybe a walk around the block. Then dessert.

Hands down holiday favorite is the pumpkin cheesecake– though this chocoalte espresso tart is luxurious. For the cookie lovers, pumpkin gingersnap cookies, gorgeous cranberry macadamia white chocolate chip cookies and rum raisin oatmeal cookies.

The following morning would be full of succulent Latvian Pancakes, with plenty to freeze for later snacking—the perfect way to get rid of those turkey day leftovers!

Enjoy your Turkey Day wherever you may be.

I know it’s a little vague to use the term “Asian Inspired” when describing this, or any, dish. Possibly Asian fusion works better, or simply, fusion braise (to go along with all the fusion restaurants we have these days).

For a few weeks now, D has been eyeing the 4-inch thick cuts of beef chuck at the butcher. They called out meat-protein overload to him, so when I finally okayed the purchase he was in heaven. As we headed next door to the vegetable stand and D picked out a few potatoes for the braise, he eyed me warily as I bagged up chestnuts and shiitake mushrooms. More than once I was told not to “ruin” his beef.

Last summer I was in China finishing up a Masters degree. Between tastings of dehydrated “rope” pork, emperor banquets of delicately crafted dim sum, ogling beetles and snakes on a stick and falling in love with the velvety sweet pulp of mangosteens, I became enthralled by the vibrant offerings of vegetables. Each dish was a still life: Broccoli was reshaped into flowering blossoms, mushrooms became lotus roots and lotus roots became dragon scales. I was constantly amazed by the care that was put into presentation, regardless of the establishment.

It was in these dishes that I came to re-appreciate the texture and versatility of the shiitake mushroom, amazed how it holds up in cooking. And it was here that I learned to love the chestnut– popping up to add a rich flavor and thick creaminess to dishes I hadn’t known before. Used sparingly, mostly as a holiday embellishment (accordingly with their season), I don’t think the chestnut receives its fair exposure.

This dish is in some ways a remembrance of China, but more so, a way to incorporate the ingredients I came to appreciate in a succulent braise. We ate the braise bare at first and on the second and third day cracked an egg on top and enjoyed it baked. The egg adds another wonderful depth of texture and fabulous richness once the yolk is broken. And those little potatoes D gathered for the braise? Perfect for sopping all the juices up.

ASIAN INSPIRED BEEF BRAISE
Serves 6 persons. Active time= 20 minutes. Inactive time= 3-½ hours (depending on thickness of meat).
* 1 pound chestnuts, roasted and shelled
*5-6 pound cut of beef chuck (or other inexpensive cut)
* ½ pound shiitake mushrooms, cut into quarters
* 1 medium onion, sliced (or 2 bunches scallions)
* 3 tablespoons soy sauce
* 1 tablespoon sesame oil
* 1 teaspoon dried chili flakes
* ½ bottle red wine
* water
* ¾-1 pound (small) new potatoes, red or white, left whole

1) Roast the chestnuts before beginning. I apparently did not slice into the shells deep enough and a few exploded in the oven. Preheat oven to 350F. Carefully slice an “x” into the bottom flat nub of the chestnut. Place on a pan and roast for 30 minutes, until shells begin to peel away (or blow up in my case). Allow to cool and remove shells. Place meat aside in a bowl (okay if meat breaks apart).
2) Warm a dutch oven over medium high heat with a 1 tablespoon butter-1 tablespoon olive oil combination. Once warm, rinse off beef and pat dry. Salt and pepper both sides of the beef. Once pot of hot, add beef and brown on all sides, about 4-5 minutes each side. Remove meat from pot, set aside.
3) Add mushrooms, chestnuts and onion to pot. Sauté until onions turn translucent, mushrooms brown and chestnuts break down slightly; about 8 minutes.
4) Add soy sauce, chili flakes and sesame oil, stir to incorporate.
5) Push contents of pot to the sides and replace meat in the pot. Add red wine and enough water to come just below the top edge of the beef (depending on how thick your meat is, you might not need any).
6) Place potatoes around the top, but not in the liquid. Cover tightly, turn heat to low and allow to braise (slow cook) for 3-½-4 hours. Check on the pot once an hour. Turn heat down if liquid is boiling. Add more water if all liquid evaporates out. The dish is done when meat easily falls apart and sauce has thickened.
7) Enjoy warm as is or with a baked egg on top (see below).
8) With baked egg: Preheat oven to 350F. Dish up a portion in an oven safe bowl. Create a small divot and crack egg into the space. Place dish on cookie sheet for easy transport and place on middle rack in oven. For a runny yolk, bake for about 10 minutes, until yolk just begins to form a white covering.

Tags: beef braise, braise, beef, Chinese cooking, baked eggs, comfort food, chestnuts.

When I was a girl, chicken came in two forms: lightly breaded and grilled. Lightly breaded chicken appeared as chicken Parmesan, chicken Marsala or simply plain. Grilled chicken sometimes joined forces with teriyaki, bread to form a sandwich, or cold on a salad. How quickly chicken can turn boring.

Somehow, I never grew sick of it. But these days I have added to my mother’s repertoire. D loves his fried chicken and we often dish it up this way. Roasted is excellent with a little basil, garlic and pomegranate molasses rubbed on top. But please, somebody bless the French for thinking to add wine to everything!

I must have understood I would come into a love of food. I took my first French class by the second grade—after school sessions taught me numbers, color, hello and goodbye. By sixth grade I was accompanying my family to Paris. While my father attempted to ask for directions in his broken Spanish reasoning, “it’s close enough,” I ran in to intersect and placate a developing brawl. With my basic direction skills I was able to ask, receive and even understand the compliment: “Little girl! How well your French is! Such a fine accent! Never listen to your father!” Well, thank you, I still try not to.

My love continued until some evil teachers in high school set me back. It has not stopped my love of the culture, especially the food. I was beyond ecstatic when a (dare I say reasonable) French bistro opened in my area. And even when I was snubbed by the waiter for requesting ketchup with my fries (is it my fault a steak au poîvre comes with no sauce?!) I returned for more. Each time the food got better, I had tried everything on the menu, and pretty soon I was having drinks with one of the chefs. So it made a perfect setting for an intimate birthday party.

It was my birthday and I ate my mussels with pleasure. But as I spied a guest enjoying his Coq au Vin with much gusto, I took to staring until a morsel was offered; pure decadence. The chicken fell right off the bone. The sauce was thick and rich and just calling for crusty bread to act as a sponge. That one little taste was etched in stone.

So with an organic chicken accompanying me home my mind wandered past my youth of lightly breaded chicken, grilled chicken, paused briefly at fried and then rounded the corner to my birthday memory. A bottle of cheap ($3.99) wine was purchased and miscellaneous vegetables were pulled from the refrigerator. Suppose I claim my Coq au Vin surpassed that of my beloved restaurant? With the chicken melting off the bone (while it appears to hold together quite well in the photo) and the sauce begging to be sopped up with great zeal, this is a meal that is calling out to be made.

While at my family’s Seder the other night I mentioned this dish. “Oh no,” my step-mother cringed, “coq au vin just takes too long!” Actually, prepping this dish is simple. Like all braised meat it is the slow cooking that takes patience. And with all braised food, the wait is well worth it.

Coq Au Vin
Makes: 4 servings. Active Time= 25 minutes. Cook Time= 1-½ hours.
* 1 whole chicken, cut into sections (you can ask your butcher to cut it for you)
* 2 carrots, cut into 1-2 inch pieces
* 1 celery stalk, cut into 1-2 inch pieces
* 1 apple (I used a Golden Delicious, but any sweet baking apple would work)
* 1 onion, chopped in ¼ inch discs
* 2 cups red wine
* 2 bay leaves
* 1-2 tsp fresh rosemary
* 1-2 tsp fresh basil (or any other herbs you like)
* fresh pepper/ salt
* 2 Tbl unsalted butter or olive oil

1) In a Dutch oven (or other pot with tight fitting lid) over medium heat, warm the pan and melt the butter. Add carrots, celery, apple and onion. Sautée until onions are limp, about 8 minutes.
2) Add chicken and brown on both sides; 8-10 minutes. Add wine, bay leaves and other herbs.
3) Reduce heat to medium-low, secure lid and allow to simmer for 1-½ hours; or until meat falls off bone.
4) When done, carefully remove chicken and any loose bones from pot; set aside (or place on serving plates). Using a hand-held blender, or in batches with an upright blender, purée the contents of the pot until thick and smooth. Return chicken to pot (or add purée on top of chicken). Garnish with fresh herbs and serve with fresh crusty bread.

In non-food related activities WCB at Eat Stuff brings us the world of cats.
Some cats understand good window manners. Here is Kitty BoJangles at her perch eyeing a few squirrels:

And then there is Whisky, the Terrible Tot. Thinking he can claw his way out of house and home to chase the birds and squirrels:

A few years ago, I had an ideal roommate: she was an amazing baker while I was the meat and potatoes of the operation. Together we created some tantalizing meals that impressed all around us. We were an unstoppable duo, especially in the kitchen. She moved out, we move on, and now she lives half a continent away. On a recent visit, she imparted onto me the most precious gift of all: The Art of Eating by M.F.K. Fisher.

It is a hefty volume, almost 800 pages; a collection of Fisher’s best writings on food. But its cover was the most seductive image I had laid eyes on that I eventually cracked it, finishing it in one week’s time. Today I will not indulge the reader in a full review; that is for another time. I will say it is one of those books once picked up is impossible to put down. The writing is so voluptuous is calls to be read aloud to an audience.

With each sitting I grew hungry, not only for more of Fisher’s writing, but physically. Throughout the book, recipes wrapped in Fisher’s memories are found. Before I passed this book on to another friend, I copied a few of those recipes down to satiate my appetite another day. Many seem almost archaic today (in the United States at least)—roasted pigeon– these are recipes that must be indulged at some point in one’s lifetime.

Today I unfurl one of those copied recipes with more to come. This one if found in the section “How to Cook A Wolf.” First published in 1937, this section is a guide for the housewife on how to scrimp and save in the bowels of wartime, as well as after. How does one continue to live a life of luxury when there is none to be found?

I must suppose pheasants were easier to come by in those days. A young boy could go on a hunt with his father and return with a sack of pheasant to feed the family for a week, nary a penny spent. Today, pheasant is a luxury (at least in New York City). I was determined to create this dish (and if I could not find pheasant, Cornish Hen or something of that sort would have to do). Low and behold today at the Green Market I found Game Dealers: Wild turkeys, chickens, geese, and of course, my dear pheasant! A little on the expensive side ($20 for a good sized bird!) but it was destiny to find and had to be bought. Add to that 1pound of fresh bacon (also from the Green Market) this meal is hardly a hungry wolf—it can now pass as a starving millionaire fare.

BRAISED PHEASANT (OR PARTRIDGE) IN SAUERKRAUT
Serving Size= 4 persons. Active Time= 45 minutes. Inactive time= 2½ - 3 hours.
This is the recipe as it appears in The Art of Eating.
* salt and pepper
* 2 small or 1 large bird (or 1 rabbit)
* bacon slices
* 3 tablespoons butter or good oil
* 1½ pounds sauerkraut
* 1 cup peeled and sliced apples
* 1 cup dry white wine (or half and half with water or vegetable stock)
* 1 tablespoon flour

Rub birds with cut lemon, and salt and pepper them. Wrap with the bacon and tie securely with twine. Heat the fat and brown the birds.
Wash the drained sauerkraut (unless it is very mild, [t]hen just drain it). Place a layer of it with the apple slices in the bottom of a casserole and imbed the birds. Cover with the rest of the kraut and apple, add the liquid, and cover closely. Let simmer very slowly for about 2 hours.
Put the birds on a hot plate, and thicken the kraut with the flour. Make nests in it, and replace the birds in them, ready to serve.

On non-food related musings, here is WCB # 40 over at Eat Stuff. Below we have Whiskey and Kitty BoJangles sitting at the first open window of the year…

What happens when a fresh coconut in the middle of the winter is too hard to resist at the grocery store? When you try to impress friends from out of town by using your drill to get at the sweet, rich water inside (other than learn there are easier ways)? What do you do once everyone has had their fill of sweet coconut meat? You spend a week in coconut bliss…

It all started with a Coconut Banana Bread with Lime Glaze. Now, fresh coconut is not needed for this bread, but it tastes amazing sprinkled on top. Once all that coconut meat is shredded, there are about 4 cups to put to use. Coconut Banana Bread used about ½ cup. Today it was Chicken Masala. I must admit this was my first time ever cooking a “legitimate” Indian meal. In the past, I have sprinkled some curry, tumeric and cumin together and called it Indian. Sad, because I absolutely love Indian food. And bad, especially since I have most of the spices in my cabinet!

I found a fairly simple recipe on Mahanandi. This recipe was chosen over others because, well, I had all the ingredients. This recipe also did not take too much time—as long as everything is in front of you at the start. It also helps to have an extra hand in the kitchen (so while one is roasting spices, the other can grind). The final result was excellent and filled the home with an amazing aromatic essence.

First, the benefits of coconut.

At a recent dinner party, I ordered coconut milk. I offered some to a friend who dissed it, “Oh, that stuff is really high in saturated fats. I won’t touch it.” Your loss, it was good. Coconut Oil is one of the best oils a person can consume. For centuries, South East Asian cultures have called the coconut palm the Tree of Life. Coconut oil is antiviral, antibacterial, antimicrobial, and antiprotozoal. Not all saturated fats are alike. While coconut oil is one of the highest in saturated fats it is also one of the highest sources of medium chain triglycerides, many of which are important in building and maintaining the immune system. Some medium chain fatty acids, like coconut oil, help to maintain the metabolism. It is also very good for the skin as a moisturizer.

Coconut Meat is high in fiber, vitamins and minerals (vitamin C, E, calcium, magnesium, potassium and iron). It is also low in cholesterol and sodium. Other forms of coconut include Coconut Water which is the liquid found upon initially cracking the coconut open. And Coconut Milk, made by steeping coconut meat pulp in boiling water and then pressing for the milk. All these forms of coconut share similar health benefits up to a point.

Below is the second installation on coconuts. More to come shortly on this tasty and long lasting fruit! This recipe is taken from Mahanandi’s site. It is followed step by step with the replacement of chicken instead of potatoes. Interesting, because my masala turned out orangey-brown instead of red! It also was not as sauce-based as Mahanandi’s picture! Maybe more water (or plain tomato sauce?) would fix this. Well, it was still delicious! I served this on a bed of basmati rice. Once again, it is recommended to have all ingredients out before starting. And again, a second hand helps– While D was roasting all ingredients on the stovetop I was busy puréeing the ingredients together in steps and keeping an eye on the rice. In the end, there is enough masala leftover for two lunches tomorrow.

The below recipe is the original Aloo Dum (Potatoes in Masala Sauce). This recipe seems like a lot of ingredients but it is really mostly spices. So give it a try.

ALOO DUM
Serving Size= 4. Active Time= 30-45 minutes.
The preparation is three step. First boil the baby potatoes until they are just tender. Roast and grind the spices, the vegetables and the nuts for masala sauce. Combine and cook them together. The whole preparation takes about 30 to 45 minutes, if you have everything at hand.:) And the main chunk of it is of course to wait for the potatoes to boil.

* 12 tiny baby potatoes

Veggies
* 4 medium sized ripe tomatoes, each cut into four quarters
* 1 medium sized red onion or 4 shallots cut into big chunks
* ¼ cup finely chopped coriander
* 1×1 inch piece of fresh ginger
* 2 big garlic cloves

Nuts
* ½ cup cashews
* ½ cup fresh grated coconut

Dry Masala
* 6 dried red chillies
* 1 teaspoon coriander seeds & cumin
* ½ teaspoon peppercorns
* 3 small cinnamon sticks and cloves
* 1 star anise

Popu/Tadka
* 2 teaspoons of peanut oil
*1 teaspoon of mustard seeds, cumin and some curry leaves
* ½ tsp of turmeric
* Salt to taste

1) Preparation is boil, roast-sauté-grind and cook.
Boil the potatoes until they are just fork-tender. When they are cool enough to handle, peel the skin. Prick them with a fork in multiple sites and keep them aside.
2) Gather the listed ingredients for masala sauce, ready on hand on a big plate. Heat an iron skillet and proceed like this.
3) Roast dry masala ingredients, for few minutes, until they release their smell. Remove them from the skillet and keep aside.
4) Roast cashews, then fresh grated coconut for few minutes. Remove them from the skillet and keep aside.
5) Roast ginger and garlic for few minutes. Remove them from the skillet and keep aside.
6) Finally heat one teaspoon of oil and roast onion and tomatoes for few minutes.
Let them cool down little bit. When they are cool enough to touch, put them in a blender. Add half glass of water and half teaspoon of salt. Grind them into smooth paste.
7) Cook: Heat one teaspoon of peanut oil in a big wide pan or kadai. Toast the popu ingredients (mustard seeds, cumin and curry leaves) until they start to splutter. Add the grinded masala paste and another half glass of water. Stir in turmeric. Taste and add salt if needed. Add baby potatoes. Cover and cook on medium heat for about 15 to 20 minutes. Finally stir in finely chopped cilantro and serve.

My Kitchen Notes: 
Don’t forget to prick the potatoes, so that they can absorb the sauce.
 Onions - avoid yellow onion and go with shallots or red onions. 
If you want, you can also stir in cream/yogurt at the end.

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When I visit friends and family in Chicago I am taken to an inviting Indian restaurant. Upon arrival, diners are promptly brought a sweet, buttery, roasted red pepper dipping sauce accompanied by a basket of steaming nan. I can sit there all night undecided on what to order, finish off a bowl of dipping sauce, and leave happy and fulfilled.

This soup is made with that dip in mind. With the removal of some butter and the addition of some hearty chicken stock, it provides the perfect meal. The natural sweetness of the red pepper is brought to its fullest potential in this dish, taking center stage. It is sweet and beautiful: the black burnt skin adds a stunning accent against the deep scarlet of the soup. It is a healthy dish in these cold winter months. In the height of summer, it is enjoyable cold. For those that crave zest, add a little hot sauce, providing a perfect companion. For something more comforting, an addition of cream or milk provides a thicker consistency.

Red peppers are high in vitamin C and antioxidants while remaining low in calories. In this soup, I made my own stock (bought stock may also be used). I left whole chunks of vegetables in the stock along with chicken. I separated the chicken from the vegetables, adding the vegetables to the roasted red peppers and tomatoes, puréed with everything else. Chicken was returned post-purée to make this extra hearty. The verdict is that this soup is sweet, savory and aesthetically pleasing in the bowl. Served along with a toasted bagel or crispy bread, this is the perfect meal.

ROASTED RED PEPPER & TOMATO SOUP
Serves about 8. Active Time= 15 minutes. Inactive time= 1 hour.
* 4 red peppers, halved
* 4 roma tomatoes, halved
* 1 head garlic, remove cloves from skin
* 1 medium onion, chopped
* 2 stalks celery, chopped
* 2 carrots, chopped
* 6 cups chicken or vegetable stock
* 1 5-oz can tomato paste
* 2 Tbl fresh parsley
* 2 Tbl butter
* 2 Tbl olive oil

1) In an oven-safe dish, arrange tomatoes and peppers skin up. Use a dish that is large enough to avoid overlapping too much. Add garlic cloves. Drizzle with olive oil and put under the boiler for 20-30 minutes. Remove when skin of vegetables is blackened. Using tongs, place red pepper, tomatoes and garlic in a paper bag (rest inside a bowl to catch liquids). Close and let rest 20 minutes to continue cooking. Retain any liquid left in the baking dish.
2) While red peppers, garlic and tomatoes are in the bag, over medium melt butter in a soup pot. Sauté onion, celery and carrots until onion is soft, 8-10 minutes. Add stock and tomato paste; let warm.
3) Add peppers, tomato, garlic and any remaining liquid to the soup pot. Add parsley and bring to a simmer. Carefully in batches using a blender, or with a hand-held cordless blender, purée the soup.
4) Garnish with fresh parsley. Add chicken, cream or milk if desired.

NOTE: If you desire the addition of chicken, and do not have it in the stock, simply cook some up on a pan and add it after the soup is puréed. To keep this vegetarian but add some heartiness, toss chopped mushrooms in with the onions, celery and carrots.

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