Clotted cream, or Devonshire Cream, is an all time favorite in this household. Forget a simple scone (and tea time for that matter), we’ll smear it onto cinnamon raisin toast, a hearty whole wheat soda bread, and just about any cracker-like formation at any time of the day. The biggest problem I have finding it, even in New York City, is that the good stuff (ie that imported from Devon, England) is hard to come by and fairly expensive for a mere 1-6 ounces. While high quality heavy cream isn’t that much cheaper, the taste of this homemade version is world’s better than any clotted cream I have been able to get my hands on State-side.

Clotted cream is similar to butter in that the fat content of the cream clots (hence clotted cream), but varies in that it is heated low and slow for several hours to bring the clots to the surface, rather than butter, which is agitated to form clots. The result is a slightly sweet and luxuriously smooth butter-like cream substance, or simply, clotted cream. It remains creamy when cold, though will still melt when smeared onto warm toast.
This super rich version is made with heavy cream from jersey cows (the cow breed, not the state). Many believe the higher the fat content of the cream you start with, the better your results. Do not attempt to make this with low-fat or ultra-pasteurized creams (remember: you need fat for this product!). Although a good quality organic full fat heavy cream (or whipping cream) will do, pasture-fed cows will produce the best quality clotted cream with a taste that will change with the seasons.

Brits will tell you clotted cream is best on scones at high tea, but I recommend you try it whenever the mood fits.

NOTE: Don’t let the long cook time throw you from making this recipe. It’s all undisturbed low-heat cooking followed by a night in the fridge.

Clotted Cream
Makes about 1.5 cups. Active time= about 10 minutes. Inactive time= 10 hours plus overnight.
2 cups heavy cream (raw cream or a good quality full-fat organic)

1) Preheat oven to 180 F. (This might just be a setting called “warm.”)
2) Place heavy cream in a heavy bottom ceramic, cast iron or enamel pot, about 8 inches by 13 inches. (You want to keep the cream shallow, but not so shallow it burns, 1-3 inches up the side is good.) Cover the pot and place in the center rack of the oven. Leave undisturbed 8-10 hours, until a dark yellow crust has formed on top of the cream.
3) Uncover and allow the cream to cool. Recover and place in the refrigerator overnight.
4) Using a spatula, pull the clotted cream from the dish and transfer to a storage container. Use leftover cream in baking applications. Use clotted cream in 4-5 days.

In the past few years we have seen a major push in cupcake appreciation. What was once a treat reserved for your school year birthday celebrations has turned into one hot commodity. In New York City you can hardly walk down the street without these memories of school years long past smacking you in the face, asking to be bought. These days, whether you pile them high with frosting or provide a sheer glaze, everyone loves a cupcake.

Is it our individualistic society and the fact that cupcakes are truly one’s private cake? Is it the unique possibilities (that are really so endlessly easy) with each cupcake? Is it because they remind us of our childhood? Or that eating one cupcake seems much more special than eating a slice of cake?

I love cupcakes because I can make a bunch and give them to a number of people with each one thinking the creation was solely for them. They are also easier to grab when you need your sugar fix. And really, they are more fun to eat than any dessert I can think of.

See my recent article in the Queens Chronicle, Romantic Recipes, for some cupcake ideas for your sweetheart. Included are three cupcake recipes I adapted from standards. Each recipe is delicious (just ask D who helped wolf them down in no time) and each fulfills a different kind of love.

For a hot, exotic romance, the Dark Chocolate Ancho Chili cupcake with Vanilla Buttercream frosting (pictured at top) is perfect. The dark chocolate cupcake is flavorful and moist and the ancho is an unexpected kick.

For the traditionalist in your life try the Chocolate cupcake with Champagne frosting (pictured middle). The cake is just slightly sweet allowing the champagne to really pop.

At bottom is the cupcake for your Queen (or King) bee. The Lemon-Vanilla cupcake with Honey frosting will set the stinger on love in no time flat.

For the classic recipe for Red Velvet cupcakes see my old post.

Follow this link to the recipes at the Queens Chronicle.

Also, check out my article last year on Aphrodisiacs for the holiday!

Wait a minute, you’re thinking.
Seriously? Did I just write that correctly? I’m thinking.

It’s all true. There are beets in that cake. As chocolatey and dense and delicious as it looks, beets lurk within. All that beet goodness gives the cake a slight red tint and a spectacular taste (no kidding). You can happily add this to your diet and eat it for dinner and dessert all in one. Er, maybe as a beet salad appetizer and dessert in one. Er… Okay… Just dessert. But you can pretend you are eating healthy from all those vegetables.

When I told D about this recipe he was less than pleased, How about just a chocolate cake?

How about we have 5 lbs of beets from our CSA’s winter share we need to go through in 3 weeks and we’re going to put beets wherever I please. For our last distribution I jarred our beets into some snappy rosemary pickles and needed a new and interesting outlet. Chocolate is always a kitchen winner, from mole to brownies, so with beets it would pair.

If you are still having problems with the sound of this cake, or any sweet vegetable cake, think about carrot cake, zucchini bread or the eggplant loaf. (Just kidding on that last one.)

Maybe this will become a sneaky way to get vegetables in your child’s meal, or a way to hide beets from the beetaphobe in your life. I guarantee this cake will be eaten.

The original game plan for this recipe was cupcakes. Fluffy beet and chocolate cupcakes. After a quick survey of the pantry, when no flour could be found, I decided a more dense, flourless cake was in order. I must say I am very happy no flour was found. I think the rich texture of this cake presents the beets very well. Paired with a tall glass of milk, I think of this as borscht for the new generation.

I found the original recipe on epicurious for a flourless chocolate cake and adapted it. I cut out some of the butter and cocoa powder and because beets contain natural sugars, I reduced the amount of sugar. I also found 1 full egg and 2 egg whites to be plenty (okay, I only had 1 egg and 2 whites frozen- but it worked!). And of course, the original recipe contained no beets, so I added plenty.

Flourless Chocolate Beet Cake
Active time= 15 minutes. Bake time= 25 minutes
4 ounces bittersweet chocolate
6 tablespoons butter
1/4 cup sugar
1 teaspoon orange zest
1 egg, separated plus 2 egg whites
salt
1-1/2 cups grated (cooked) beets plus 2 tablespoons cooking juice
1/4 cup cocoa powder

1) Preheat the oven to 375F. Butter an 8-inch cake pan, line it with parchment paper and butter the parchment paper.
2) In a double boiler set over medium heat, melt the chocolate and butter.
3) With an electric mixer, begin beating egg whites with a pinch of salt and the beet juice. As whites build, add the sugar, egg yolk and zest into the chocolate mixture, stirring to incorporate evenly. Add grated beets to the chocolate and incorporate.
4) Gently fold in the egg whites and cocoa powder until just combined. Pour into the buttered cake pan and bake 25 minutes in the center of the oven.
5) Cake is ready when a toothpick comes out clean on the sides, but slightly wet in the middle. Remove
from the oven and let cool 5 minutes. Invert the cake on a plate and refrigerate 30 minutes before serving.

The holidays are fast approaching. Hanukkah is just around the corner (sundown, December 4th) and Christmas will come and go faster than we all think. If you’re not celebrating those holidays, a small token for the New Year or holiday party might be a nice gesture– Or maybe just a thank you for neighbors watching your pets.

While I am more partial to giving (and receiving) homemade gifts, there are many people that just don’t have the time. Here are some foodie-minded items that will bring out a smile this gift-giving season.

Homemade
*Cookies and other sweets are always delicious. Try peppermint rocky road cookies, peppermint bark, apple spice cake, cardamom streusel cake, a mixed cookie selection, chocolate fudge cookies or cranberry macadamia white chocolate chip cookies. Just buy an old holiday themed cookie tin (ebay?) and gift away.
*Spice rubs. A small jar will fit your favorite homemade spice combination for others who love to cook.
*Drink Mix. Are you a deft mixologist? How about mixing up a base concoction of your famous brew with a direction tag like “just add rum for holiday cheer!”
*Jams and other preserves. Did you go ape with the bounty of fruits and veggies this summer? Why not gift some preserves to your friends? Nothing says love like some summertime tomatoes, pickles, green beans or fig jam. Why not pack along your favorite recipe using the product?

Books
From food-lit to wine bible there are many great foodie offerings in the literary world sure to please any foodie.
*The more politically conscious on your list will love The Whole Soy Story, by Kaayla T. Daniel, Food Politics, by Marion Nestle or Seeds of Deception, by Jeffrey M. Smith.
*Can’t make it to Paris this holiday? Gift the markets instead with Emile Zola’s, The Fat and the Thin
*To help the oenophile along, try The Oxford Companion to Wine, by Jancis Robinson (Editor). Or, for the budding wine enthusiast Educating Peter, by Lettie Teague (review) is a great start. Even more basic and a little lighter is Hip Tastes, by Courtney Cochran.
*As for cookbooks, any chef or aspiring chef would love to add The Cook’s Book, with over 7 fabulous contributing chefs to their collection (review).

Other
If you cannot make something for the holidays, ensure others are properly paid for the effort they exert to bring you your goods. There are many Fair Trade websites that now sell great home gifts from bamboo bowls to recycled glass plates. If Fair Trade is too much to ask, at least ensure you’re keeping the Earth alive by buying sustainable products.
*The Local Harvest store will help you to buy local or help you support organic farmers whether buying oranges or sheep pelts.
*World of Good has Fair Trade and Earth-friendly furnishings, clothing, books and jewelry. Their hand-woven rattan to the core baskets would make a great fruit bowl and their placemats would accent any table well.
*Viva Terra offers home furnishings, gourmet chocolates and clothing that is Earth-friendly and sleek. I especially like their slate cheese board and organic tea set in a fabulous box.
*Green Home is a one-stop shop for bath and cleaning products, art supplies, clothing and more. Their stainless steel lunch carrier is great to carry hot and cold lunches and their bamboo utensil set is a lightweight alternative for picnics.

I know, you’re thinking, is she crazy?! It’s 40 degrees out and she is making ice cream? But truly, this ice cream screams holiday cheer. I imagine a heaping melting scoop on top of a big slice of warm pumpkin or pecan pie. A dessert marriage made in heaven.

But the impetus of this dessert… It’s all the sugar’s fault.

It started about one month ago. I was working on a freelance piece about specialty sugars. I never realized how fascinating the world of sugars could be. From the hurdles importers have to break through with tariffs here, in the States, to the intense natural flavors these sugars produce. I was seduced by sweetness.

While the article does not delve into the political side of sugar (a subject to investigate more. Here’s a link to some articles), it does attempt to discuss the rise and differences of sugars like Muscavado, Turbinado, Demerara and Molasses. (Link to the article TK. Pub date is Dec 07/Jan 08.)

My contact on the piece at Wholesome Sweeteners was kind enough to send me some samples. I was thinking two or three packages of some of the more interesting sugars. I was more than happily surprised when a fifteen pound box of mixed sugars arrived at my door. Even happier was I to find that the samples were heavy on their Fair Trade line (available at gourmet retailers around the country).

So I stood looking at all these sugars and all I could think about was cookies, pies and ice cream. I threw my ice cream maker in the freezer and concocted the above flavor. There is actually no molasses added into the ice cream. Molasses naturally coats the sugar granules.

Simplified, cane sugars are made when pressed cane juice is spun in a centrifuge pan and layers are pulled, or harvested off, to produce varying sugar grades of color and flavor (the color and flavor also depends on where the sugar is produced). As layers are pulled off, cane juice thickens and ends up as molasses in the bottom layer. Different layers are sold with different degrees of molasses coating the hardened sugar granules, from Raw or Demerera sugars all the way to Molasses sugar or black strap. This gives the sugars a unique flavor, from honey to fudge-like, and a naturally darker color. Refined white sugar is made when raw sugar is processed to remove all coloring and unique flavors. Regular brown sugar is refined white sugar with molasses added back to white sugar.

The original name for this ice cream was simply Sugar. I soon realized the name would need more explanation when a conversation with D went something like this:

“Ooooo, ice cream. What flavor?”
“Sugar.”
“No, what flavor ice cream?”
“Right. It’s sugar-flavored.”
“Uhhhhhh.”

A similar conversation was repeated when I had a friend try the ice cream.

The reality is that the rich roasted coffee-molasses flavoring this ice cream has is derived completely from the sugar I used, light muscavado. The caramel swirl is made from Sucanat (simply cane juice dehydrated and broken into large crystals). So because there is so much natural molasses in this ice cream, I simplified the name.

I was more than pleasantly surprised with the results and am thinking of other Sugar Ice Cream varieties. Give this simple ice cream a try. Even without the caramel swirl, people will wonder what a palate you possess to have created such a wonderful flavor. Try other specialty sugars with this recipe. Dark Muscavado will be even richer. Demerera will have a lighter flavor.

I used The Perfect Scoop, by David Lebovitz, as a guide for these recipes.

Molasses Caramel Cashew Swirl Ice Cream
Serving size= About 1/2 a quart. Active Time= 30 min. Inactive Times= 4 hours.
Ice Cream Base:
2 cups cream or half and half
1 cup whole milk
3/4 cup Light Muscavado sugar
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon vanilla

Salted Caramel Cashew Swirl:
1 cup Sucanat
2 tablespoons butter
1 cup cream or half and half
1 tablespoon salt (do not use if using salted butter)
1 cup cashews (or other nut)

1) Prepare your ice cream maker.
2) Make the ice cream base. Warm the cream with the sugar over medium heat until the sugar melts. Transfer to a bowl and stir in the milk, salt and vanilla. Refrigerate until cold, about 2 hours. While the ice cream is chilling, make the caramel sauce.
3) Put butter and sugar in a pot, over medium-low heat until sugar begins to melt down, about 10 minutes. Watch it carefully. Stir as it begins to melt down and remove from the heat. Carefully and slowly, add the cream, whisking between each addition. The sugar might splatter it is extremely hot. If sugar crystals remain after all cream is added, return to heat and stir until it melts down. Pour caramel over cashews, add salt, stir. Let sit at room temperature until ice cream is ready to make.
4) When ice cream base is cool, add it to your ice cream maker. Once done, Put half in a freezer-safe container, add 2/3 of the caramel, the remaining ice cream and top with remaining caramel. Freeze until solid, 2 hours.

I wait all winter for fresh fruit. Those imports that come from Chile, Mexico, Australia and other parts of the globe simply do not taste as good as the local stuff. Part of it is because fruits and vegetables bought in the grocery travel on average two weeks and 1,500 miles to reach your plate. This means they are picked well before ripe and sprayed with ethylene gas to appear ripe when they reach the markets, though are a far cry from tasting ripe. The biggest victim of this method is probably the tomato.

Local food obviously travels less to reach you making it more environmentally friendly. It also keeps the consumer in touch with the seasons. Why don’t apples taste as good in July? Where does all the acorn squash go in May? If food must travel less to reach its destination it will (hopefully) be picked closer to ripeness– or when fully ripe. So local food tastes better. To find out more about local food go here.

If you purchase from farm stands or greenmarkets even better: you have an opportunity to talk with the person who actually produced your food. This allows you to find out their farming methods and philosophy. Often times, this produce can be found low-spray or organic. To find out more about organic food go here.

The best food I have ever eaten has been the stuff I picked myself. A peach direct from the tree, arugula from my garden buckets and apples in an orchard.

The other weekend D and I went strawberry picking. I cannot remember the last time I picked strawberries but it was definitely a time when I was closer to Earth. Let’s just say a 4 inch plant is not a small distance from 5ft 11in me. 3 hours of squats will do more to your thighs than you think, especially when you rely on your legs to carry you around the city and up and down the subway stairs.

Picking fruits and vegetables connects me to more than the Earth. It makes me aware of how difficult not just farming, but especially harvesting is. Spend a few hours in 100 degree heat breaking corn from the stalks and you will see what I mean.

As D and I at times crawled around the field we popped a few of those sun-ripe and ultra sweet berries for a tasting. One taste was all we needed to let greed take over. 4 quarts, 3 hours and a belly full of berries later we were on our way to a vineyard for a little relaxation before the drive home.

The results? One quart went to my father and the other 3 were broken into 2 piles: “Eat Now” and “Savor a Bit.” A few days later both Eat Now Savor a Bot were resorted, sliced and transferred into a third “Use Me” pile. Use Me became the items pictured below: Strawberry Lemon-Limeade, Strawberry Scones and Strawberry Ice Cream.

Strawberry Lemon-Limeade
Makes about 1.5 quarts. Active time= 20 minutes
Juice of 4 lemons
Juice of 3 limes
1 cup strawberries, loosely chopped
Simple Syrup to taste

1) Make simple syrup: Place 1 cup sugar and 1 cup water in a pan over medium-high heat. Let simmer for 10 minutes.
2) While simple syrup is simmering, juice lemons and limes. Place the lemon juice, lime juice and strawberries in a 2 quart container. Fill container with water about 3/4 full.
3) Using a hand held blender (or regular blender) puree ingredients until a desired consistency is reached (leave some strawberries more solid if desired).
4) Add about half the simple syrup, taste, add more if desired. Add simple syrup until desired sweetness is reached.

More recipes soon…

D and I recently had some friends over for an intimate feast. We prepared many items we had never attempted before, something I often shy away from when we have guests– there is nothing worse than messing up something you have never attempted before. But cooking, like any passion, is all about trial and error and you’ll never get better without an attempt. All in all, the 5 hours spread ended deliciously well, mishaps included.

All vegetables, and most fruits, were brought to us by our local Community Supported Agriculture program. Each week I am thankful that we have invested in our farm and I proudly brag about “my farmers” who brought me my organic vegetables– just picked yesterday!

This weekend we celebrated the spring bounty.

The evening began calmly as pictured above. I started prepping items 1 week in advance: spanakopita (spinach from “my farm” with local sheep feta), rhubarb syrup (rhubarb from last week’s CSA drop boiled down with water and sugar) and a rhubarb tart (crust prepared and frozen and rhubarb chopped and frozen). The rest was finalized and started the night before arrival…

We welcomed guests C and M with choice of champagne or a strawberry rhubarb “martini.” I like to call drinks served in martini glasses and made with vodka “martinis,” as do most bars and restaurants. I suppose because it makes the drink sound more sophisticated. D is angered by this and claims it is a merely a mixed cocktail if it has no vermouth. Our Strawberry Rhubarb “Martinis” contained rhubarb syrup, vodka, mashed fresh strawberries and were topped with champagne. We also eventually threw some mint in there.

Next was the spanakopita. I received pounds of spinach, amongst other greens last week. S

o much I feared we could not eat it, but didn’t want it going to waste. I could not bare to simply freeze the spinach so bought some filo and feta, steamed and chopped the spinach, added nutmeg, crumbled feta, wrapped in filo and froze. Laborious to wrap individually, yes (a spanakopita pie would have been easier), but well worth it.

An assemble-one’s-own course followed next. I like the idea of the guest doing some work, it allows them to understand flavor combinations you use a little more and how they work together. If they don’t cook, it also makes them feel like they are creating something. You can see the beginnings of this course spread out above: Buttered and toasted crostinis, fig spread, goat cheese and topped with prosciutto.

The fig spread is a treasured find of mine and D’s. We uncovered it in the Middle Eastern section of one of our local markets– the one I can easily spend hours walking down the aisles because they have floor to ceiling goodies from all over the world. This spread hails from Lebanon and has three simple flavors: fig, sesame, anise. It is a fantastic addition to sandwiches, crostinis

and is really a power secret ingredient. It would be simple to make, but at$2 for an 8oz container with such a pure ingredient mixture, why bother? The prosciutto was from a local Italian deli.

We entered the main of our meal. The moment D said C and M would be over for dinner I proclaimed rabbit would be the headliner. I held fast through D’s skeptism. My thought: no matter what produce we would receive from our CSA, rabbit would be a perfect compliment. D still thought it was slightly disturbing to serve “rabbit salad,” so we broke the salad into more of a side.

We wanted the rabbit sweet to compliment the warming weather– a more savory base is fitting for fall and winter. I found a marinade based in orange juice, honey and cayenne which seemed perfect for this. I wanted to incorporate nectarines into the dish and thought to make a nectarine mousse. Unfortunately, as witnessed in the picture above, the mousse never set properly (recipe now in the works). It ended more a thick sauce that we poured over the rabbit and topped it all with crumbled bacon. The salad, red bib lettuce, sugar snap peas and radish were provided by our CSA.

Gluttony followed.

My newest acquisition is an ice cream attachment for my Kitchen Aid. I’ve been itching for an ice cream maker for a few years now and with a few Am Ex gift certificates in hand, it was a real steal. I went all out and made two treats for this meal. The first was a lemon-lime-ginger sorbet. This was a great sweet-tart intermission though I would add a little more ginger next time.

This was followed by D’s conquest: foie gras.

Let’s just put out that I know both sides of the foie gras debate before we get all the comments coming in. I think Gastronomica Magazine has a great article about it in their Winter 2007 issue. Let’s just say I can rarely afford it so rarely eat it. (But it is delicious.)

At this point my local butcher thinks I am crazy. Each day I go in I discuss and request more from them: free range veal, grass-fed beef, truffle butter, truffles, and this weekend, I asked if they would put rabbits and foie gras aside for me. They know me by site now and if I ask for a simple steak they ask if something is the matter– just steak?

We couldn’t afford the entire “foie” so we split if with one of the butchers who was happy to take home the other half. I asked for his discount, but he denied. Note to self: get in with butchers until discount is granted. D took care of the prep, slicing it in thirds, de-veining, salt, pepper nutmeg, layer, port, cognac, repeat. For whatever reason our most trusted cookbook failed us for the first time when it failed to mention that the foie must sit for a few good hours post-cooking to re-set– many recipes suggest 1-3 days. While we knew some sitting would be necessary, the foie was a little loose when served, still delicious (and is a great topping on salad for a luxurious dinner another night).

Lemon-lime-ginger sorbet repeat and then the finale.

I found a rhubarb streusel tart recipe on epicurious that I knew would be perfect. Not only did we receive rhubarb from our CSA the previous week, D is a big fan of anything with streusel in the name. How can you not love butter and brown sugar? Instead of mixing almonds into the streusel as called for I used the handy new ice cream maker and created my own almond ice cream.

This I believed was my true triumph. Something D couldn’t imagine tasting good– “almond ice cream just does not sound good,” yet he keeps coming back for more and requesting me to churn out new flavors– dare I attempt arugula custard? Not just yet… a cognac creation is next.

MENU:
Rhubarb Spritzer
Spanakopita
Fig-Goat Cheese-Procuitto Crostini
Roast Rabbit w/ Spring Greens & Nectarine Mousse
Lemon-Lime-Ginger Sorbet
Foie Gras
Lemon-Lime-Ginger Sorbet
Rhubarb Streusel Tart w/ Almond Ice Cream

I love cookies as a quick little treat and D just loves them, period. This makes any cookie a precious commodity in the household and one that we run out of fast. Because of this, it may come as no surprise that we go through many a cookie recipe, keeping our favorites close at hand as we expand the repertoire. This one is the newest edition to a growing list of favorites.

These cookies are quick to make and take no time to bake making them the perfect summertime cookie– wait?! No time to bake???

May I introduce you to the refrigerator cookie. So simple a child can make them (really). So delicious, your friends will be wowed and ask for the recipe. Once you have the base down you can do a number of different flavor combination: chocolate chip, blueberry, lemon butter, rhubarb-walnut… the list is as long as your cookie imagination. What everyone loved most about these cookies is that the end texture is more like an icing or fudge than cookie– soft and chewy, but you can almost taste the individual sugar granules!

As we were eating these we thought of loads of other uses for them since they are so low hassle. Our favorites include freezing small bits to sprinkle over ice cream or as a final pie crumble. Even better, once on the cookie sheet, flatten them as much as possible and freeze them, creating little cookie discs to use as a decorative dessert topper.

Without further ado, the unveiling…

Peanut Butter & “Jelly” Cookies
Serving Size= about 30 cookies. Active time= 10 minutes. Inactive time= about 20 minutes.
* 1 stick butter
* 1/2 cup milk
* 1-1/2 cups sugar
* 2 cups quick cook oatmeal
* 3/4 cup peanut butter (chunky or smooth)
* 1 cup raisins
* 1 teaspoon cinnamon
1) In a saucepan over medium-high heat, warm the butter, milk and sugar. Bring to a boil and stir constantly for 1 minute.
2) Place butter-milk-sugar mixture in a large bowl, add oatmeal and peanut butter. Stir until evenly mixed, working larger globs out of the peanut butter.
3) Add raisins and cinnamon, stir again until evenly mixed.
4) Cover a cookie sheet with parchment paper. Scoop equal spoonfuls on the cookie sheet, space just so they are not touching (they will not move much once placed).
5) Refrigerate until hardened, about 20 minutes.
Note: The top 4 ingredients are the base of this cookie batter. From there, you can make chocolate cookies by stirring in 1/4-1/2 cup cocoa, add chocolate chips, make a fruit-nut based cookie, add some lemon zest, juice and ginger for a more puckery treat, or whatever else you can think of.

It was an event we had not planned for. We toyed with a grand feast but soon rejected the notion, it would be too much work, our friends work in the restuarant industry and would be occupied, it was too difficult to organize. We dropped it.

But we live in a neighborhood of many Greeks. Many religious folk, both Greek and non- alike. When Easter comes around, there is no stopping the call of lambs… Especially when two Easters fall on the same day.

We had heard stories: walking out the door on Greek Easter, following a trail of red to find it end in a slaughtered lamb being hoisted to the spit. We had seen the evidence: families roasting meats into the night for a celebration of Spring and birth, we could smell it all day in years past.

We retold these events Friday night to some friends, R and T, transplants from New Orleans. They wanted in and with a burst of emotion D invited them over for a feast. We didn’t realize what we had gotten ourselves into.

We pushed our way through the crowd gathered at the butcher to take our ticket and left to shop. We returned one hour later only to wait an additional hour for our number to arrive.

You could see people drooling for the blood: What number are you?

57.

Oh, I’m 80.

No, I’m I-57, see, you’re J-80. You have a long way to go.

He was defeated. But our ticket came up and somehow, we were fooled. We kept saying, just one lamb leg, just a leg. Only two people were confirmed, any more meat would have been too much. Yet somehow we left with half a lamb. A whole half, the right half– we let another customer take the head.

Was it the shopping carts of full carcasses, ready for the spit and our jealousy in their setup that got us buying more than we needed? Was it the utter craziness of people willing to wait hours for a piece of meat? Was it the recent viewing of the film Killer of Sheep? Was it the sly upsell to half a lamb when we saw half a leg and thought it looked a little meager?

We dragged our meat home and examined our bags– what had we done?

I planned the menu while D examined his different cuts and attempted to reassemble the animal. I think that’s a spine, oh look, marrow! These parts in the freezer for soup, random bits for kebabs, separating the chops. The main event was the lamb and the rest of the menu would follow a Greek-inspired theme as well as some leftovers we were looking to get rid of.

We started with a simple and savory appetizer platter. Figs in a Blanket (pictured above) were the highlight. Taken from a Martha Stewart appetizer cookbook my mother sent me. D exclaimed that this was definitely the best recipe in the book (he has never opened the book). These were a huge hit that D added would be our appetizer of choice here on out. We served our kebabs, marinated in a spice mixture and lemon juice and olive oil. A selection of cheeses R and T brought accompanied all this. When R and T entered the cheese shop and told the man behind the counter they were looking for cheese that would pair with wine braised figs wrapped in bacon the reply was, “niiiiiiccccce,” with half-closed eyes and a dreamy look. It was all very nice indeed.

The next course was a “palate cleanser.” Salt and peppered lamb chops quick seared accompanied some freshened up leftovers. I know, that whole “leftover” thing doesn’t sound that great, but it was rich and decadent: D and I bought a duck the other week (pictures to come) and part two of the duck was braised duck legs in red wine. We added potatoes and parsnips to the braise and had plenty leftover. We mashed the wine-infused potatoes and parsnips up, added a good heap of butter and some milk, fresh scallions and voila. A totally decadent side that had traces of duck fat and wine.

The next part of “The Grand Tasting Menu,” as the event was soon called was the lamb legs (plural). Half a lamb gives us 2 legs, both butterflied by the butcher. These were marinated a few good hours in a spice mixture I made heavy in garlic and fresh ground coriander. D seared them on our largest Le Creuset and threw them in the oven for about 1 hour. Served with a simple Greek salad.

We were bursting when the meal ended. Luckily, for all members of the party this was the only meal of the day. Still, when a meal reaches past the 4 hour mark, Gluttony may be knocking at the door.

We took a needed walk where R decided he needed a taco from our beloved man that sells out of a truck down the street. We returned for dessert.

I knew this meal would be heavy and chose a light angel food cake for dessert, baking them in cupcakes and stuffing each one with a fresh strawberry (pre-cooking) for individual servings. While we were on the walk, we decided ice cream would pair nicely with the light cake and picked up a quart. Somewhere along the way, the dessert also jumped the shark (although you could really say the meal jumped the shark with the purchase of the lamb). The leftover syrup from the braised figs was kept on reserve and rum was added with strawberries around the appetizer section of the meal and left to soak. Angel food cupcakes stuffed with strawberries, a hefty scoop of vanilla ice cream and a heavy dose of strawberries soaked in a balsamic-wine reduction with rum.

I would say the meal on whole was a long, dreamy, eyes closed halfway nnniiiiiiccccce. We wish we could have shared it with more– although there is a good amount of lamb leftover if you want to bring the wine.

Recipes to follow shortly.

It’s true, I’ve been posting a lot of sweets lately. It’s not because I’m not cooking “real” food, but because the past few weeks have seen me working more than usual. Returning around 8 PM (or later) and cooking while hungry and exhausted just does not put one in the mood to set up lighting for a shot. It also makes for more quick meals– we’re making great progress depleting the frozen soup stocks.

Cookies are a relaxing thing to cook for me. They are comforting and delicious and can usually be made fairly quickly. The bonus is that you know they will be delicious.

To make myself feel better I called these, “healthy cookies.” They are full of almonds and egg whites and have very little flour– the dessert version of ordering an egg white omelette I’d say. They are delicate yet filling and go nicely with an afternoon tea or coffee. Another plus, they are another winner from The Cook’s Book.

Tuiles means tile in French and refers to the old curved roof tiles that are layered on homes.

Almond Tuiles Cookies
Serving Size= 25 large cookies. Active time= about 8 minutes. Inactive time= about 12 hours
* 1-1/3 cups sliced almonds
* 1/2 cup + 2 tablespoons sugar
* 2 drops of vanilla extract or 2 pinches vanilla powder
* drop of bitter almond extract
* 2 egg whites
* 2 tablespoons butter
* 2-1/2 tablespoons cake or pastry flour

1) Using a rubber spatula, mix the almonds, sugar, vanilla extract or powder, bitter almond extract, and egg whites together in a bowl.
2) Melt the butter gently and, while it is still warm, pour it into the bowl. Mix thoroughly. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.
3) The next day, sift the flour into the bowl and mix in thoroughly. Place teaspoonfulls of the dough on a nonstick baking sheet, spaced well apart.
4) Preheat the oven to 300F. Flatten each cookie with the back of a large spoon dipped in cold water, then bake for 15-18 minutes. The cookies should be an even golden color with no white in the center.
5) Remove the cookies from the baking sheet using a metal spatula and slide into a sheet of parchment paper. Let cool.
Note on Shaped Tuiles: For the traditional roof-tile shape, lift each cookie off the baking sheet with a metal spatula and, while still hot, drape it over a [clean] wine bottle or rolling pin. Let cool and set.